The Press & Journal in Scotland ran a good article in their travel section recently, when they discovered the benefits of having a family holiday in Lanzarote.
UNTIL a few months ago, I would have run a mile from the idea of an all-inclusive holiday package with buffet dinners and organised games in a sprawling multiplex hotel.
But things change fast with parenthood. With a child in tow – in fact, a nine-month-old little spitfire with enough energy to fuel a Nasa spaceship – all-inclusive suddenly seemed a blazingly good idea.
After what felt like a lifetime of no sleep, baby food coming out of our ears and one of the coldest winters in British record books, we wanted to be looked after and organised.
So we jetted to Lanzarote, a Canary Island which rather prides herself on avoiding the degree of building which transformed near neighbours such as Tenerife. And, just like a dame, she turned on the charm – warm days, cool nights and friendly folks.
Our base was Playa Blanca, on the south-west coast of the island, where the promise of pre-paid good times await at the five-star Dream Castillo Papagayo Hotel, which was built only three years ago.
The resort caters mainly, but not exclusively, for families. I wanted space and a bit of luxury, and was not disappointed.
As we unpacked, I was wow-wowing every square metre and realised it was bigger than our London flat. The bathroom alone matched our bedroom at home – and the balcony could hold 20 people and a jazz band in the corner.
And a walk-in wardrobe. I could spend days here, in this room, with its his-and-her towel bathrobes, cotton slippers and posh lotions and potions on the bathroom shelf – with real life a million miles away.
We were in the smaller, more family-orientated part of the complex which belongs to the Gran Dream Castillo Papagayo Hotel, a slightly more upmarket version of our hotel. Of the eight pools, some match the temperature of bath water, delighting our baby daughter.
The main part of the resort flanked a black stony beach, but a short hike across volcanic terrain led to a gorgeous white beach.
This was indeed a family-friendly hotel.
Every part was accessible by ramps – heaven for the pushchair brigade. In the playground and children’s play centre, mind-blowingly energetic and good-natured child minders entertained young ’uns.
Each day, these entertainers – dressed in jaunty attire of stripes and spots – made their way around inviting families to join this game or that. Regular activities included painting, games and arts and crafts.
Although we had packed a few of our daughter’s fluffy animals, children were encouraged to take toys, teddies and books to their rooms and return them the next day. It’s wonderfully relaxed, and based on good old honesty, with no record of who takes what for the night.
“Ola, help yourself. Si, si, si, see you tomorrow.”
Adults can enjoy games of darts, air-rifle shooting, petanque, water polo and volleyball. Or they can loll by the pool to enjoy the warm, uninterrupted sun.
That’s the beauty of this place – there’s loads to do if you want to. But if you prefer peace and quiet, no one will object.
The only activity I managed was a foot massage at the hotel’s spa. I forget the masseuse’s name, but there’s a place for her in foot heaven. I could barely bring myself to put my plimsolls back on afterwards, but needs must, and we had some walking to do.
The hotel is on the outskirts of Playa Blanca, so our daily constitutional took in the paved walkway along the coast, flanked by sparkling sea on one side and dramatic volcanic mountains on the other.
Along the way were several white, sandy beaches and a twice-weekly market where local artists and designers sold their wares.
While we sampled a few seaside restaurants, we realised that we simply couldn’t beat the hotel’s brilliant buffet. While much of it was pre-prepared, it was always deliciously fresh.
A large and laconic chef was on hand to prepare the day’s varied selection: omelettes, eggs, lamb chops, entrecote, squid, prawns – you name it, they’ll do it. Truly a veritable feast three times a day.
The chef also happily prepared food for babies, whizzing up fish or chicken and vegetables.
Most drinks were on the house, including cava – bottles of which fill the ice bucket from morning ’til night.
Sweet and savoury snacks (decidedly average) were available all day, but you barely have room for these as you lurch from one three-course meal to the next with barely time for a walk or a snooze in between.
As for the waiters and waitresses, they were among the best and friendliest I’ve come across on all my travels – sincere, fun and always keen to please. Our daughter never had it so good.
Of course, there is plenty to see and do outside the resort, from camel riding and boat trips to the neighbouring island of Fuerteventura (where it always seemed slightly sunnier) to a tour of works by Lanzarote’s most famous son, artist Cesar Manrique.
Not surprisingly, many attractions are linked to the dramatic volcanic origin and landscape of the island.
At the top of the hill is the Timanfaya National Park – locals still hush their voices when they mention the fire mountain, which nearly killed off Lanzarote with a six-year eruption in the early-18th century.
The volcano still bubbles away gently and produces enough heat to create an impressive geyser when water is poured down the chute.
If geology and volcanoes rock your boat, check out the Cueva de los Verdes (Green Caves) – part of a 3.5-mile lava tube which formed about 3,000 years ago when the Montana La Corona erupted.
On part of the same stretch of lava is Jameos del Agua. Cesar Manrique, with the help of Luis Morales and Jesus Soto, transformed this giant collapsed lava tube into an amazing subterranean auditorium with tropical gardens, bars, a restaurant surround and an underground lagoon.
En route, try to stop off at Manrique’s Cactus Garden. Not only is the garden testament to the most natural flora of the island, but it was Manrique’s last finished work on Lanzarote.
And if you still have some energy left, consider a visit to the Whale and Dolphin Museum, sampling a glass of vinos locales at one of Lanzarote’s few vineyards along the way or testing your skills on one of its golf courses. To read the full article click here
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